Tryfan South Gully

Touching Centauri · Joined: 06 Mar 2007 Posts: 91 Location: Bangor/St Helens

Has anyone explored this? Had something of an interesting day on it yesterday. The first pitch is described in the guide as grade 3 and is a series of grooves. Whilst we managed the first few, the final one was to slimy and difficult so we backed off. The guide then mentions a "devious traverse rightwards" a few metres higher that avoids the grooves. We found this (it was polished) but again, very slimy and so we backed off again.

Here we left the gully and returned to Heather Terrace as I knew of another way around. Just to the left of the main gully is a rocky runnel. We scrambled up this to a grassy area where we managed to regain the main gully by some narrow ledges.

Here, again the guide failed us. It seemed to suggest we take the next step on rock on the left. No rock however, just a lot of wet grass which we managed to overcome with much difficulty and little grace! Above the gully forks. The book talks about taking the right hand brance and then climbing a steep slab.

Up the right branch we went over a small rock steps to a bigger one. Here we roped up and climbed the slimy rock/grass/choss to what we took to be the steep slab. Hoping the summit to be not far off our leader climbed up to the wet slab to find...well...hopelessness! More slimy vegetation and no chance of progress (at this point I should also point out our leader is a climber!). At this point we decided enough was enough and abseiled back down. An interesting, if rather scary day.

According to the UKC database there is a Mod in South Gully. Is this what we were on? If so the slimy nature of it makes if far beyond Mod. Were we supposed to regain the left branch earlier rather than carry on up the right branch? If so the guide didn't make it clear.

So anyway, if anyone does head that way be prepared for a lot of choss. The last edition of the scrambling guide was written a long time ago (then the route was given a respectable one star) so whether things have simply changed so much.

dante · Joined: 06 Mar 2007 Posts: 23

Had similar problems on Chasm Face a few weeks ago. 'Ape-like swings' felt VDiff, the short wall after the Cat-Walk (barely mentioned in the guide) had to be aided (!) as it was slimy/blank, and the 'Arch-Tempter' which the guide claims takes you into Main Gully in 8 metres actually left us about 20 metres above Main Gully, with no obvious escape. Oh, and the chockstone at the bottom of Main Gully was at least 4a! Began to see why 'Scrambles in Snowdonia' is referred to as 'Helicopter Rescues in Snowdonia' ....

Touching Centauri · Joined: 06 Mar 2007 Posts: 91 Location: Bangor/St Helens

I've not done Main Gully, but backed of the chockstone when it was slimey and horrible. As for Chasm Face, I know a few people have done it and reckon the underground chimney is the highlight! How come you missed it?

dante · Joined: 06 Mar 2007 Posts: 23

I'm happy to admit me wimped out of the underground finish. Looked as far as we could into the black, slimey, vertical fissure, saw nothing but black, slimey, vertical rock and decided discretion is the better part of valour ...

Touching Centauri · Joined: 06 Mar 2007 Posts: 91 Location: Bangor/St Helens

Well, for those interested, the South Gully pics are now here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/sets/72157601039824127/

johnwakeman · Joined: 06 Mar 2007 Posts: 31

johnwakeman · Joined: 06 Mar 2007 Posts: 31

I wonder whether you (Mike) and your companion got up South Gully today? We were going up first pinnacle rib when we saw you - we did the first 3 or 4 pitches, then, as it was getting a bit late, decided to do the rest of South Gully as an 'easy' way off. I can only say I wish we'd finished the climb - it would have been quicker and safer! South Gully is easily the slimiest and most unpleasant / insecure scrambling I've ever had the misfortune to do! The top pitch was horrible! Ashton's guidebook is not only very lacking re the route description, but it's beyond me completely why he gave it a star. I guess if it was done after several months of drought, it might just about be worth doing. Still, an extremely enjoyable day... including the vile gully!

Touching Centauri · Joined: 06 Mar 2007 Posts: 91 Location: Bangor/St Helens

Hi John, it was good to randomly bump into you yesterday! We had a look at the first pitch of the gully (the slimy grade 3 grooves) and decided they wouldn't easily go. So once more we took the easy runnel outside of the gully to gain it above the first pitch. We had a look up the gully and...common sense prevailed! It looked slimy, wet and very horrible!

We decided it obviously needs a spell of summer sun to get right in and dry it out. But as you say, why the star?! Maybe it was in better condition when the book was written. I assume you took the left branch?

Oh, and I have a photo of you on the first pitch of Pinnacle Rib which I'll upload sooner or later.

Mike

johnwakeman · Joined: 06 Mar 2007 Posts: 31

Yes, it was well worth avoiding! We did take the left branch - which begins just level with where we came off the climb. The Ashton description would be that much clearer if he said something like that above the open, scree filled part after the initial grooves 'there is a steep prow of clean rock dividing the gully into two. The route continues to the left of this' or words to that effect. Actually, the rest of his description is quite accurate, but no use if you take the right turn here! Anyway, I look forward to seeing your photo!
John

Touching Centauri · Joined: 06 Mar 2007 Posts: 91 Location: Bangor/St Helens

Well, it sounds like quite an adventure anyway! I was back on Tryfan yesterday with the university walking club. I took a group up the South Ridge taking a direct route which had some surprisingly good steps and lots of variation. I generally just neglect it as I'm just coming down the path there instead.

Anyway, the photos of you on the climb are here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/1860631340/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/1860633288/

johnwakeman · Joined: 06 Mar 2007 Posts: 31

Great photos - thanks, Mike!
John