Garnedd Ugain Expedition (Cwm Glas Approach)

gjcardi · Joined: 30 Dec 2007 Posts: 3

Attempted this last month, with the intention of having a day off 'hard' climbing (note to self - never take anything with the word 'expedition' in the title lightly!). Described in Steve Ashton's book, and like many others in there, this (or part of it) was positively desperate. Yes, I am referring to the Cwm Glas Approach (Grade 3). Anyone else done this, as it seemed stupid and dangerous to us, and way too hard for a scramble ?

Did this in big boots, with a slimmed down climbing rack but with a harness. This apparently starts about 10m right of the waterfall. This was an almost gearless greasy slab requiring a partial layback and a slap for slopers at the top. Bearing in mind I'm currently breaking into leading HVS, this was totally desperate. The rest of the pitch was gearless, but more amenable Grade 3ish. Top pitch was 2 then 1. It might have been easier were it a bit drier, but given the fact of how close it is to the waterfall I doubt it gets much drier.

Then decided to wimp out of Clogwyn y Person (Diff then 3) and did Crib Goch by the North ridge and descended via Garnedd Ugain. We must have taken a wrong turn of the ridge on the descent (following Mr. Ashton's wise words), as we ended up walking down steep, wet rock and grass, with waterfalls going off all around us, only just identifying a suitable descent as the light was fading. Got back to the car with headtorches at 7.

Now, I'm wondering if Steve Ashton has put this little scramble in for a giggle, or if anyone else has had experiences with it (good or bad?) Just glad I didn't attempt it when I was only leading Diff!

Touching Centauri · Joined: 06 Mar 2007 Posts: 91 Location: Bangor/St Helens

I'm not really sure what route you mean? Are you talking about "Scrambles in Snowdonia"? In "Scrambles and Easy Climbs" by Tom Hutton there is a route that sounds similar in Cwm Glas - climbs to the right of the waterfall and heads into Upper Cwm Glas. But it sounds like nothing in the Ashton book to me!

As for descent, again I'm a bit confused? You said you descended via Carnedd Ugain? Do you mean Cwm Glas Ridge (which again is in the Ashton book), and is path marked?

gjcardi · Joined: 30 Dec 2007 Posts: 3

Sorry for the confusion. In hindsight (partner had the book) it was the scrambles and easy climbs guide, although possibly the grade 1 middle bit was also in the Ashton guide. It was definately the one you describe, and the first pitch of it (only supposed to be grade 3!) was the worst.

In decent we went up crib goch, along to the summit of garnedd ugain, then headed north along the ridge/plateau from there. We descended into the cwm, because we presumed that the ridge ended in a cliff (no path marked anywhere around here on map), and ended up making our own way down into Cwm Glas, which was desperate!

Touching Centauri · Joined: 06 Mar 2007 Posts: 91 Location: Bangor/St Helens

Ah right, now I know the scramble you're talking about. Not one I've tried but it is/was on my list. Might approach with some caution now!

As for descent, Cwm Glas Ridge (in the Ashton guide) is fairly simple. One small down scramble in a little gully and then follow the faint path which takes you to the Blaen y Nant campsite. But from the top it is narrow and looks unlikely.

I've never descended into Cwm Glas direct but have gone up that way. I went up and topped out on the start of Cwm Glas Ridge (just south of where it's marked Gyrn Las on the map). That just involved easy scrambling and walking.

Ok some pics.
Top of Cwm Glas Ridge
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/2162104355/in/photostream/

The down scramble on Cwm Glas Ridge
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/2162904754/in/photostream/

The direct ascent from Cwm Glas
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/2162893102/

gjcardi · Joined: 30 Dec 2007 Posts: 3

Thanks for that - that was definately where we were attempting to descend, but bearing in mind it was getting dark, I think we beared out right a bit early and got stuck in the middle of wetness and big drops! I'd definately go up that way again, because it was so quiet, and now I know the proper way down I might be tempted to do Clogwyn y Person Arete because it looks a stunning line.