Clogwyn Y Person - is it really grade 2?

dave · Joined: 06 Mar 2007 Posts: 3

I would describe myself as being reasonably confident and experienced scrambler who has done routes such as the In Pin on Skye and easier routes on Idwall Slab. Last weekend I did Clogwyn Y Person Arete and was surprised how hard it was for a route that is usually described as being a grade 2. The only exemption is the book Britain’s Alpine Ridges lists the climbing as moderate and when I compare this route to similar routes such as Cyfry Arete I agree with this grade. I just can not accept what I did yesterday was grade 2 scrambling. Does anybody else agree with me, were we off route or was I just having a bad day?

Touching Centauri · Joined: 06 Mar 2007 Posts: 91 Location: Bangor/St Helens

I haven't done it but route finding on it is notoriously tricky. You can easily find yourself on much harder ground.

dante · Joined: 06 Mar 2007 Posts: 23

Did it a few years ago. The main ridge seemed to me to be solid Grade 2, although admittedly we did weave around (on the right hand side facing the crag) a steep step just above the breche at the top of the gully. Can't comment on the gully approach - we tried what we thought was the approach up the Parson's Nose (supposedly Diff) and I found it desperate! At one point I was run out 30 feet above my last gear in a large crack and had to make a committing mantel out onto the front of the buttress. I've a suspicion that we were actually on the 'Parson's Nose Direct' however - no idea what the grade of that is though. The description of that bit in the Ashton guide is useless ....

dave · Joined: 06 Mar 2007 Posts: 3

Further to my original message I was speaking to somebody who once made his living guiding in Wales and he had done this route many times and was amazed to learn that it was only grade 2. This months Trail Magazine has now given the route a grade 3. Given that the route hasn’t changed last time they gave it a grade 2 and wrote a description that made it sound straightforward. Anyway, enough discussion. If you haven’t done this route have a go and make up your own mind. Just pick a nice day and don’t forget your rope. Any feedback through this forum would be interesting.

milktrayguy · Joined: 17 Jul 2007 Posts: 9

I've done this route a couple of times (gully approach) and can only assume that you're referring to the Parson's Nose start as the rest is a solid and enjoyable grade 2. From what I've seen and heard on various forums and route descriptions, etc, the Nose approach does indeed seem to involve a lot of confusion as to the correct line with a lot of problems trying to follow Ashton's scant description. The arete itself has it's trickier moments but nothing too serious. Route finding isn't hard - there are options around but it all keeps you going the right way and the rock is fantastic!

johnwakeman · Joined: 06 Mar 2007 Posts: 31

Definitely grade 3 - optional bits are harder. The Parson's Nose approach is not that hard, probably Difff is accurate, but very little protection. The downclimb into the gully is quite ... interesting. Overall, I thought it compared with the Cyfrwy Arete in grade, at least by the route we took last year.