Nor Nor Groove Grade 2

Nor Nor Groove scramble wales

This is an exciting, relatively unknown route on the East Face of Tryfan.

It begins from the Heather Terrace, a ramp which slants across the face which can be hard to find at first. There are two possible approaches.

One begins at the crag of Tryfan Bach. Follow the path uphill until you reach the fence. Climb the stile and straight away turn 90 degrees right. Up on the hillside is a scree fan. Climb up this and at the top turn left on a path. This is the start of the Heather Terrace.

The second approach begins by following the normal North Ridge path. When the boulder/scree shoulder is reached, instead of going up as normal, traverse further left towards the East Face. A faint path is picked up which leads round above the previosly mentioned scree fan.
Once on the terrace, follow it past the first major gully (Bastow Gully) until you reach the next gully, this is Nor Nor Gully which can be climbed at grade 2/3.

The easier Nor Nor Groove starts here. On the left side of the gully a series of large grooves rise up. Scramble up these. For the most part this section feels enclosed, but the last step is more open, with a large drop into the gully on the right. Once overcome, a recess offers a secure place to rest.

The next step looks improbable, so turn around left and climb a tricky quartz slab to emerge on the heather covered hillside. Walk uphill until cliffs force you back into the gully.
Continue up the gully, here mainly scree with a few steps. Further up, more obstacles offer some scrambling with several lines.
The best bet is to stick slightly left. Higher up, the gully narrows again and stacked blocks offer some final fun before the gully ends at the the Notch on the North Ridge. Climb out to the left and follow the ridge a short distance to the summit.