Cneifion Arete Grade 3

Cneifion Arete

The arête is best reached from Ogwen Cottage, via the climbers' descent path left of the Idwal slabs.

Follow the gully until it emerges into Cwm Cneifion. This involves some mild scrambling. The arête looms up on the opposite side of the cwm. Alternative approaches include the path that leads up the hillside prior to the Sub Cneifion rib, the Sub Cneifion rib itself (v. diff) or any of the Idwal slab climbs, e.g. Ordinary route (diff).

The well worn scree path to the base is very obvious when you've reached it, this leads to the base of a steep rock wall. Start on the right hand side up a short groove, traverse left a bit, then follow the line of least resistance to a grassy ledge, with a chimney/groove continuation on the left. If roped, belay above and/or below the chimney.

From the top of the chimney, move up and to the right, to find the right hand edge of the arête. If roped and with confident people, this can be done moving together. Take plenty of slings, as spikes and pinnacles abound! For maximum enjoyment, keep to the right hand edge, taking each pinnacle direct.

The route has an alpine feel in the upper section and with the confidence born of being roped up, you can enjoy a lot of air under your feet. The lower rock wall is usually given a moderate rock climbing grade, so is technically high in its scrambling grade. Above that, it is considerably easier. At no point is the route especially intimidating and the rock is generally very good.

The top is a flat area (the 'football pitch') on the Gribin ridge - descend down the ridge path and either left or right before reaching the Gribin Facet