Grade. 3.
Exit contour. 200m. Length. 950ft. 290m. Av Angle. 44 degrees.
Allow 3 hours for a round trip back to the car for a pair of climbers.
We descended to the foot of the gully via the grass ridge on the North side of the gully.
This route was last climbed on 19.01.06. The description below is how it was that day. Do not assume that the gully, which is constantly changing has remained in the same condition.
Starts at the foot of a large boulder slope. Climb the boulders to enter the gully at a right hand bend. Continue up to a small rock step on a slight right bend. The gully becomes noticeably steeper. Scramble up to the right hand bend past two small steps and an escape route in the form of a sheep track leading out onto the grass slope. A large patch of gorse on the corner may provide a partial belay.
Enter the narrow gully with high rock walls and bare rock forming the floor. It was possible during our ascent to place a large hex (No 10 Fader) on the left in a horizontal crack. This next pitch is serious.
The leader will be at some point be120ft above his last runner on steep red shale. Continue up the rocky gully to a difficult 5ft rock step. Protection can be found high up on the right. Mount the step then up onto small loose stones and red shale. Continue up on shale and patches of turf, towards a metal stake.
Although the stake is bent and revolves it provides a useful anchor if tied at its base. By the stake the gully forks. Take the left fork up turf to the top.
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