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UK Scrambles
Clogwyn Mawr RibFeatured

  

This is another route that is absent from the guidebooks, and as such is a good place to escape the crowds. It also starts right from the road so you can get to grips with rock straight away. The route is in the Llanberis Pass and climbs Clogwyn Mawr, a cliff that rises above Llyn Peris (technically it is on the NNW Ridge of Carnedd Ugain). Height gain is short; about 300m.

The rock is fairly sound after the first short section, but near the top becomes wetter and more slippery. Generally there is a drop of a few metres on the left, with more worrying exposure on the right. At many points you can escape to the left and walk up or down beside the rib. Park in the layby at the SE end of Llyn Peris. The route is actually quite hard to locate from below, despite being an obvious line from afar. Climb a fence. The scramble takes the narrow, small rib to the right of the more obvious buttress. Follow the fence and keep looking up to spot the scramble.

It starts to the left of some reddish scree (and to the left of the house/hut below). Scramble up spiky and loose rock to reach a squat tower where you have several options. It can be bypassed on the left (slimy sometimes) or more easily on the right, or climbed direct (harder than it looks). Above, the rib becomes a more obvious line. The next rise can be climbed by a groove on the right, or more easily (and with less danger of a fall) by a tight little chimney on the left. Continue up to soon reach the crux. This is identified as a small, bumpy rise in the rib.

It looks smooth but easy enough. In fact, it is quite delicate with a considerable drop on the right, and worthy of at least grade 2. Make use of a slanting crack on the right, and any holds to the left of this. If in any doubt, leave the rib from below on the left and walk up the grass to avoid this section. Above this, just follow the rib but beware of lichen making the rocks slippery. There is scope for some small technical steps, which can be climbed on the left side of the rib to minimise the drop. Eventually the rock runs out and you top out below the minor top of Tryfan (not the one you're thinking of!).

Perhaps the best option to continue the day is to follow the ridge all the way up to Carnedd Ugain and Snowdon, or a descent can be made down to Llanberis.

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Route Information
Grade of route: 1 (or 2)
Average Visitor Rating: 4.00 (Out of 5)
Number of ratings: 1
Hits: 664
Added: 2007-12-11 06:42:54
Last updated: 2007-12-11 13:23:05

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