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UK Scrambles
Long Crag Buttress

  

Long Crag Buttress sits at the entrance to the Copper mines Valley, rising above the town of Coniston.

The scramble route of Long Crag Buttress takes the left hand side of the crag, providing you with the most continuous line of rock on this crag.

The Approach: You can either park in the village just before the bridge or you can also park along the lane that runs close to the river in the town center north of the bridge. Follow the lane up until the tarmac ends and you come to a gate on your right.

Go through the gate and turn left towards the large tree close to the fence and head up to the first section of rock. Climb these slabs until the rock fades out into open bracken.
Head towards the slabs right of the holy tree and climb here moving slightly right to cleaner rock. On the left lies a small outcrop, rock wall this is often best left alone unless you are a competent climber, what may seem an easy start to climb this turns into a rounded top with very few holds. Continue up the crest to a steeper buttress, and scramble you way up the buttress. The holds are good and the type of rock offers great friction for your feet.
Once at the top on a grassy ledge move to the right above a juniper tree to climb the slabs above, as you climb the angle eases, here you can prolong the scramble by traversing right onto the rocks that overlook the edge of the right-hand wall. Continue up until you are on a grassy summit.
Descent: The descent can be made by heading over left to a shallow gully/ stream follow this down until you come across a well worn path to your left, follow this safely back down to the road.

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Route Information
Grade of route: 1*
Average Visitor Rating: 3.33 (Out of 5)
Number of ratings: 3
Hits: 717
Added: 2006-08-21 10:01:50
Last updated: 2007-03-16 11:52:53

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Reviews (1)
Bit of a let down I'm afraid!
Reviewed by Wheelsy, 2007-09-24

We were really looking forward to doing this route after seeing that it received a rating of 3 stars in Evans' 'Scrambles in the Lake District South'. Unfortunately the route proved to be a bit of a let down.

On the positive side the rock was very good quality and inspired a lot of confidence because of its grippy nature. There was plenty of opportunity to vary the route, which would make it very suitable for beginners. Its proximity to Coniston meant that we were scrambling within about 10 minutes of leaving the car.

On the negative side the route seemed very easy, with almost no exposure whatsover, and Evans' assertion that '... novices will need to be roped' seemed a bit of an exaggeration. I've got quite a strong fear of heights and was not bothered at any time on the route. Although the opportunity to vary the line taken makes the route suitable for beginners, it meant that for a lot of the time we were left wondering if it was really worth moving from here to there to find the best rock when there was a much simpler and quicker way to the top right in front of you. The biggest let down about the route was the fact that it doesn't really get you anywhere - it's not a route onto a summit like other Grade 1 routes such as Striding Edge or Sharp Edge - so it's a bit of an anti-climax when you get to the top and you're just a bit further up the hill!

On the whole we were glad we gave the route a go, but didn't think it was worthy of the 3 star status given to it by Evans.

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